If you aren't sure what this post is about, go back to Part I to find out.
Alright, you have formatted the SD cards, now to assemble the units.
Unpack your 3 B+ board so that the ethernet and USB ports face to the right of you. Take the small plastic cap off of the ribbon feeder. This is where you will attach the camera.
See the images to the left for reference.
Next, pull up the black plastic strip but DO NOT pull so hard that it detaches. It should lift up slightly.
Unpack your camera. Aside from the label on the box, the V2 and the V2 NoIR look almost the same - the NoIR is black, the V2 is green. The assembly for both cameras at this point is the same.
You want to insert the camera ribbon into the ribbon feeder. The shiny grooves on the ribbon should face to the left (if your board is orientated as shown).
Feed the ribbon into the feeder and then push the black plastic strip back down.
Viola! Your assembly should look like this.
If you have heat sinks to help dissipate the heat that the unit will generate you can attach them any time. The Pi is able to operate at a range of temperatures according to the specs, but it may get a little hot inside a plastic container if the ambient temperature stays above 30 degrees celsius. That is where the heat sink and fan can come in handy. I'm not showing the set up of the fan at the moment. Here's what one of my units looks like with a heat sink attached.
Next steps = connect the IR lights if you want nocturnal capability.
Note: IR lights should only be installed with the NoIR camera. The NoIR camera has an IR filter that will detect infrared light whereas the standard V2 camera does not. The BrightPi lights can be fitted to either camera but it means the NoIR camera would detect the IR lights (these are not visible light); the V2 camera would detect the white LEDs (visible light).
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